Unlooping - Days 2 - 5

Lightship Portsmouth - check out the open air helm!

The beginning of this trip hasn't happened exactly as planned or hoped, but that doesn't mean it's bad.  The broken lift bridge in Norfolk cost us two days.  Instead of traveling, we visited the Lightship Portsmouth and toured the Coast Guard Museum.  There was dinner at a German restaurant - quite good!  Then we crossed the river to go to the USS Wisconsin battleship and the Navy Museum.  You could literally spend days doing just those two things!  The weather continued to be dreadfully hot with heat indexes in the 111 degree range.  Walking outside meant that you were dripping wet and miserable.  This required breaking up destinations with stops in between like Jack Brown's Burger and Beer Shack.  This little hole in the wall, burger dive bar is a place not to be missed if you are in downtown Norfolk!

Beltline Bridge open at last

The broken bridge is a big problem and getting any information almost impossible.  A Sunday afternoon call to the USCG Norfolk finally let us know that the repairs were done and the waterway open again.  Monday morning we were out of the marina at 6:30 AM again in an attempt to get to the Great Bridge lock and bridge in time for the 8 AM opening.  I might have been able to make it if we hadn't run into a bunch of slow boaters, but that's what happened.  We got through the lock and bridge at 9 AM, Centerville highway bridge at 9:30 and North River bridge at 10 AM.  I got in front of the line and ran for the Albemarle Sound knowing that we had a rough ride ahead.

We had a warm up coming down the Currituck Sound heading south with stiff winds from the west.  It was a little bumpy, but not bad.  The Island Pilot tow boat was in front as we entered Coinjock canal so I passed him and continued to the North River with was calm and smooth.  This was just a teaser before the Sound.  As we got out of the river, seas grew to 2 to 3 feet with west wind blowing at about 25 mph - now it was sporty!!  Seas were breaking over top so everything had to be closed up and it was toasty inside.  I cranked the generator and turned on the bridge AC which helped a lot with cooling, but not the bumps.  It took about an hour to cross and I just knew it was going to get better when we hit the Alligator River.  Not so fast!!  Now we were going due west, straight into the wind, the seas seemed like they grew and all of the spray was straight onto the windshield.  It felt like flying IFR and that the river would never end!!

There's a 28 mile long canal that connects the Alligator and Pungo Rivers.  When we entered that there was finally a break in the wind and waves.  I ran through there at about 20 mph trying to get to our destination at Belhaven, NC before 6 PM.  The Pungo was rough and we continued to get rocked.  Thankfully, only about 10 miles to the Belhaven Marina.  Greg, the harbor master met us as we pulled in about 5:30.  On this day, we covered 138 miles in 10.5 hours.  The winds blew all night, but at least this location is somewhat protected.  Dinner was at Spoon River which is an excellent restaurant.  The owner is Teresa and she could drop this place in Atlanta and be a success!  Food and service are 5 Star!!

Contains absolutely no calories!!

Day 5 was supposed to be the run on south to Beaufort, NC.  However, weather interfered with that plan.  Small craft warnings were issued for the Neuse River and Pamlico Sound so we sitting it out today and going tomorrow.  Winds have not let up all day, the boat is rocking and I'm sure this was the right decision.  So  this is a laundry and grocery day.  The restaurant open for dinner tonight is Fish Hook's Cafe.

Cozy at Belhaven Marina